Banana Leaf

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

You’ve got to trust the food will speak over and above any impressions a style-free, humble interior may give. And trust you do, as seating and feeding hungry customers is a priority from a diner that began as and still is a takeaway. Having grown in reputation for delivering high quality, authentic South Indian food at cheap prices, Banana Leaf puts substance over style every time, concentrating and directing passion into its cooking. Idly (steamed rice cakes) and thin, crispy dosas (lentil pancakes) demonstrate the multiple, balanced layers of spicing for which the cuisine is renowned. Dosas, wrapped around vegetable or meat fillings, create a delicate flavour dimension in themselves, but when eaten with the sambar (a thin spicy, dhal), two chutneys of coconut and tomato adding sweet-and-sour sharpness, the explosion of refreshingly unique flavours excites the taste buds. Spices are skilfully blended in-house, and in keeping with South Indian culture there are plenty of vegetarian options worth trying such as sambar vadai, while proving popular for meat-eaters is kozhi varuval, fondly known as ‘chicken 65’, and chicken chettinadu.

Takeaway review
With a wide selection of great value and unusual dishes from the Tamil Nadu and Kerala regions, the Banana Leaf provides a takeaway with a difference, and a great opportunity to sample traditional and authentic South Indian dishes that are rarely seen on westernised curry menus. Particularly popular are the dosas – rice pancakes stuffed with a variety of fillings including cheese, vegetables or semolina. Masala tawa fried fish – charred flavoursome moist bites of salmon, set up the palate ready for a substantial main of lamb with deep and earthy chettinadu spices. A wide selection of meat-free options makes this a good place for veggies and the competitive prices make the Banana Leaf a real pocket-pleaser.

• High point: High quality, authentic food; no BYOB charge
• Low point: Can get cramped when busy