A Room in Leith

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Down by the water in Leith sits this northerly branch of the city’s 'A Room In … ' bistros, its shore-side setting shown off by a dining room conservatory and outdoor tables should the sun deign to shine. Enter the restaurant through the cosy Teuchters Landing bar: helpful staff will guide you should you get lost. As befits a dining room next to a bar, an excellent range of Scottish craft beers is on offer from the Inveralmond, Innis & Gunn and Black Isle breweries, and there are over 80 malts to choose from. Fish is a speciality. A prettily presented smoked trout starter has a burst of mustard heat, and a plate of roasted cod is given added interest by a salmon croquette and creamed leeks. There are also surprises, such as a deliciously light savoury cheesecake, the creaminess of which is spiked by a piquant salsa. Ox cheek is a much heavier affair: a big punch of beefy flavour after long, slow cooking has ensured that all the sinews have melted into the meat. Old favourites such as sticky toffee pudding and chocolate roulade round off the meal.

• High point: Shore-side location
• Low point: Bar food only outside