China Blue

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Barely noticeable amid newsagents and fast food joints, taking the narrow staircase up to China Blue really pays off. The restaurant has a simple bistro appearance with gingham oil cloths and blue light framing the windows, but it offers authentic cooking to those in the know. Young Chinese couples enjoy an after-work bite, while staff melt into the background. There are a number of menus available at any time of day, offering dishes suited to Chinese and western palates, but all are of a high standard. Grilled dumplings have a comforting, chewy texture, quite different to the usual steamed variety, and beancurd is as smooth as a thick, salty custard, wrapped around spicy minced meat. For an excellent example of a familiar favourite opt for the crispy shredded beef, which cracks then dissolves on the tongue. But if you fancy something more dangerous, try thousand chilli pork. With fresh red and green chillis topped off with the dried red variety, it is not for the faint-hearted. Be armed with plenty of neutralising side orders, and the burn won't last too long.

• High point: Authentic cooking in simple surroundings
• Low point: Toilets need redecorated