KoolBa

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Koolba began life as a Persian restaurant but Glasgow diners apparently made it clear they wanted curry. So a curryhouse – with Persian starters – it became. The change of direction was so successful that the team from KoolBa went on to earn a place alongside other top Glasgow restaurants competing in national Curry Capital contests. KoolBa is highly regarded, perhaps this is something to do with their motto: 'Please be aware everything is cooked fresh and with passion.' This ensures a lightness in each dish, untainted by rich oils and generic sauces. All the breads, also baked on site, are light and delicate. The pittas dip perfectly into the smooth, slightly spicy hummus and the naans are awesome. Given the skill in the kitchen, it might be nice if a few more Persian speciality mains had kept their spot on the menu. However, the curries are certainly tasty and made all the better by the star-studded beer list – featuring many award-winners and organics from Europe, Australia and elsewhere on the globe. This alone puts many Merchant City bars to shame.

• High point: Homemade hummus and pitta
• Low point: Almost spinach-less saag paneer