- Telephone 0131 557 0330
- Opening times Noon–1am.
- Bar open Mon–Sun 3pm–1am. Extended in Festival
- Food served Mon–Fri 5–10.30pm; Sat/Sun noon–10.30pm.
- Average price £27 (lunch); £32 (evening meal)
- Website www.monteithsrestaurant.co.uk
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This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.
From the moment you step under the twinkling canopy of the narrow close, the small, charming details set Monteiths apart. The relaxed setting embraces its historic Royal Mile setting, where the rough hewn stone walls are subtly lit and gentle tartan softens the room. The menu continues this inviting tone, fondly enjoying Scotland’s larder. And the execution is fun: light, sizzling whitebait arrives in a small metal pail with mason-jarred, piquant tartare sauce. Creamy, yet appealingly chewy pearl barley risotto needs to be spooned up to capture every cheese-shimmered drop. Mains move to heartier territory, although a selection of seafood, firm and fresh, offers lighter options. Sweet pink rack of lamb shelters in the mild nutty coating of its pistachio crust. Shreds of ox cheek resonate all the earthy richness offered by the beef, sitting in proud, moist mounds. Upholding brasserie tradition, the wine list is filled with interesting and unusual offerings at canny prices. For those tempted to explore beyond the single bottle, a sampler of three smaller glasses of selected whites or reds invites a low-key entry into some enjoyable wine tasting.
- High point: Charm and quality go hand in hand
- Low point: Vegetarians have very limited options
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 15
- Provides: Gluten-free options, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: mixed compliation
- Capacity: 47
- Largest group: 16, or whole restaurant (during week)
- Open since: 2007
- House wine: £19.50 per bottle
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