Bisque Bar & Brasserie

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

There are few external signs to reveal that tucked away inside the Bruntsfield Hotel is Bisque Bar and Brasserie. Multiple entrances lead into a cosy bar area, where televisions show news and sports coverage. Further through is the main brasserie space, which on the whole manages not to feel like a chain hotel’s dining room, and attracts a mixture of hotel residents and locals, particularly when the weather allows the use of the popular garden area. The eponymous seafood bisque starter is rich, peppery and warming. One of the menu highlights is the rhubarb chutney, homemade from seasonal fruits from the chef’s garden, which accompanies a juicy pheasant and venison terrine. Mains include plenty of obvious choices – burgers, steak, battered fish – but dishes like roast pork belly with a crispy skin atop melting fat showcase an appreciation of good ingredients. For those who can find room for a dessert, the sharing plate features a slightly soft but nonetheless enjoyable tarte tatin, a sharp and moist red berry sponge pudding and a rich vanilla creme brûlée.

• High point: A surprisingly enjoyable dining experience
• Low point: Some tables are better situated than others