Heart Buchanan

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This review is taken from the 2012 edition.

Two changes of ownership in three years – with a third being negotiated at time of writing – hasn’t exactly made Heart Buchanan a picture of stability of late. But then neither has it dented the compact little deli-café at the top of Byres Road’s popularity – getting a table at peak times remains challenging, be it in the main ground-floor seated area or a small mezzanine above the deli counter. Sandwiches such as breaded sole ciabatta and starters a la venison meatballs subtly subvert lunchtime norms. Breakfast – and you get the feeling this is what brings most patrons in, particularly at weekends when it’s served all day – is of a continental flavour, and can be health-conscious (granola with yoghurt and seasonal fruit compote, organic porridge, bespoke omelettes) or indulgent (brioche French toast with maple syrup, BLT) as you like it.

• High point: Cakes to heart
• Low point: Service could be quicker