Stac Polly Bistro

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Would the dour notables from Edinburgh’s distant past gazing down in monochrome print from the walls of this cosy bistro approve of the current goings-on here? They would certainly recognise the ingredients: salmon and haggis, pigeon and venison, all Scottish through and through. The presentation might raise an eyebrow, when it comes to a rather fancy filo pastry ‘bowl’ of roasted portobello mushrooms, butternut squash and cranberries. Salmon is equally poshed-up, stuffed with crayfish tail mousse and served alongside a black-eyed pea cake, broccoli, smoked tomato and chervil mayo. There is a touch of sunnier climes too, as well-travelled gentlemen might recognise. Aubergine comes baked with tomato and mozzarella, while among desserts like golden syrup sponge and Scottish cheeses is a panna cotta, dense with chocolate, cut with fruit compote and a very local shortbread biscuit. It’s not a place to be indiscreet, with tables so close to each other. But with lights low and a glass or two from the short wine list, this branch of Stac Polly (there’s another in Dublin Street) is as convivial today as in the days of Lord What’s-his-name.

• High point: Compact and bijou
• Low point: Occasional gilding of the culinary lily