Tempus

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Set in the former grand dining room of the George Hotel, Tempus tries to strike a casual note in historic surrounds, although the mood and the menu aim more at gastro pub than formal restaurant. The stature of elaborate plasterwork and substantial chandeliers make this a challenge, even though the waiters do look quite sleek in their dark, modern kilts. So too does the policy of offering very little real ale, and none from Scotland, in the bar or restaurant. The menu covers the landscape of Scottish bistro fare, but the rope-grown mussels lack freshness in their lemon cream sauce and pan-seared scallops lose their subtlety in an overly sweet glaze, overcome by the fried Stornoway black pudding. The aspirations of the venison Wellington are buried by heavy pâté under limp crust, but the 28-day hung Ballindalloch rib-eye steak pulls its own weight. Puddings tweak traditional fare, including sticky date and toffee pudding and toffee pecan cheesecake with salted caramel ice-cream.

• High point: Convenient if you are staying at The George
• Low point: Jarring music spills over from the adjoining bar