Spirit of Thai

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Sandwiched as it is between two of the capital’s foremost arts venues, the Usher Hall and the Lyceum Theatre, this smallish concern will never lack for footfall. Pleasant and unobtrusive staff, gold-accented décor and soft lighting on small tables establish a mellow ambience; however, in this production, corners seem to have been cut where they ought to have remained intact. Pallid chicken lets down the dishes in which it features, and sauces can be over-sweet and somewhat one-dimensional. On the other hand, vegetarians and vegans fare better here, with an impressive variety of menu options drawn from across the spectrum of Thai cuisine, and a robustly fresh and light vegetable tempura enlivening the good range of starters.

• High point: Excellent range of vegetarian choices and a zingy house white
• Low point: A sense of cooking-by-numbers at times