The Sisters Kelvingrove

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

With its clean white walls, dark drapes and wooden floors Sisters Kelvingrove has a smart, business-like appearance that attracts celebrating couples, families and local hotel guests, while also becoming a meeting, greeting and eating point for the Highland Diaspora that occupies this bit of Glasgow’s West End. As such, it knows how to keep abreast of a hale and hearty appetite with Chef Jacqueline O’Donnell excelling in blinged-up home-cooking served in hefty portions using wholesome ingredients. The menu is awash with fresh Scottish produce from Uist scallops to Dingwall haggis to peat-smoked haddock. Galloway roe deer is served like a deconstructed pie – chunky and rich meat topped with creamy mash and a cheese crisp – a sturdy and filling starter. Scrabster-landed hake is light, fresh and perfectly cooked perched on an inspired accompaniment of crunchy spring rolls filled with mussels and vegetables in spinach purée and lemon butter. Puddings are also expertly executed especially puff candy meringue in butterscotch sauce – a gooey, crunchy syrupy delight. Faultless presentation, smart cooking and chatty staff are the hallmarks of this chic outfit.

• High point: Relaxed and friendly atmosphere
• Low point: Wine list not as classy as the food