The Brasserie at Òran Mór

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Arts and concert based venues get their biggest numbers on event nights. So it seems for the Brasserie which is entered through a splendid stone vaulted arch at the side entrance to the old church that forms the spectacular Oran Mor. The room has an elegant array of silky, carved wood, muted lighting, a small cocktail area and a line of booths along the back wall – a tasteful, stylish space that deserves to be generally busier. Rump of lamb doesn’t quite come to life since it’s served with a slightly undercooked risotto and would probably suit more vegetables and redcurrant jus but a nicely seasoned saffron mash in a pool of shellfish beurre blanc works well, playing host to a good sized steamed monkfish. Hearty puddings include a crunchy apple crumble and freshly made ginger ice cream. There are great value menus: Thursday nights and Friday/Saturday afternoons have two courses for two at £22, while Sundays have an excellent set menu of 3 courses for a mere £12.95.

• High point: Cosy surrounds in an impressive building
• Low point: Loos three floors by lift