Roastit Bubbly Jocks

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

This unique eatery encapsulates the gallus Partick outlook to restaurant interiors with its candlelit tables, art deco lamps and an eccentric Mondrian-inspired wall hanging made with contrasting slices of polished Scottish wood. As expected it has a relaxed and friendly vibe with locals and visitors lapping up some splendid home-cooking with lively twists. Check the specials board for pan-fried fish of the day from sustainable stocks or occasionally the freshly prepared Cullen skink – creamy and smoky with yielding chunks of white and yellow fish. Elsewhere, a starter of chicken liver parfait is light and fruity and nicely seasoned. The menu rolls with the seasons and sticks to Scottish staples such as scallops, venison, haggis, neeps and tatties and a particularly fine chicken supreme with Stornoway black pudding served in a light mustardy sauce and creamy potatoes. Slow-cooked pork belly is fragrant and peppery with a hint of paprika and fennel and comes as a hearty, filling chunk. The market menu is particularly good value where interesting starters alongside mains like steak pie or pork burger cost a mere 12 pounds.

• High point: Great home-cooking
• Low point: Can get noisy when busy