Thai Lemongrass

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Perched atop the rise of Bruntsfield Place, Thai Lemongrass is a solid bet for those who like Far Eastern fare dispensed with a liberal spoon. The large glass-fronted space is rather draughty and could feel lacking in privacy if you’re after a venue for a cosy dinner á deux, though low lighting, dark wood and gentle music do something to foster a sense of intimacy. Service is swift – you decide if that’s a good thing – and, happily, the food bears the hallmarks of having been cooked with a careful eye to freshness and depth of flavour. Generous starters include salty pork neck and skewers of soft, sweet gingery chicken satay served in thick jade and aquamarine glazed bowls, and a creative range of mains include a zesty hot and flavoursome panang and chicken gaeng par gai with melting chunks of pumpkin and aubergine and crunchy green beans. Among a handful of desserts the chilled banana with coconut milk, palm sugar and pandanas leaves is delightfully weird, and evocative of hotter shores. A recommended spot for hungry travellers: they’ve even got a special menu for tour groups.

• High point: Strong, bright flavours and large portions
• Low point: Hovering staff