Brutti Ma Buoni

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Zinc tables, novelty spirits behind the bar, walls papered with banknotes and postcards from around the globe: at first glance Brutti Ma Buoni has all the trappings of a travellers’ bar rather than a traditional bistro. But it would be a shame to miss out on the good things coming out of their open-plan kitchen, either to accompany drinks or combined as a meal. The Italian name, meaning ‘ugly but good’, refers to the signature Brutti breads – parchment-fine, misshapen crisp pizza breads with a range of toppings including peppers, olives and feta, and blue cheese and rocket. Salads, sandwiches, things with chips, and tapas dishes round out the menu – with the Italian accent slipping somewhat in the process. A portion of Swiss straw chips, topped with a combination of Gruyère cheese, spring onions and mayo, is surprisingly moreish if somewhat hard on the heart. Warming chorizo and bean stew has a cumin-rich tomato base while honey-chilli chicken wings are strong on chilli but lack sticky sweetness. A deconstructed, cherry-packed cheesecake of the day is a winner, especially when washed down with a cup of excellent coffee or even one of those novelty liqueurs.

• High point: Those Brutti breads
• Low point: Teeny-tiny plates to balance slices on