Rafael's

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Rafael Torrubia has a hand in every aspect of his eponymous restaurant. He not only rules the kitchen, he might well take your booking, greet and seat you on arrival, and talk you through the many options on a menu that gives Scottish ingredients a Spanish twist. It’s unsurprising that Rafael’s peach-toned, chintzy dining room has now been a Stockbridge fixture for 12 years when he and his team make diners feel genuinely welcome and valued. The daily changing menu means it’s unlikely you’ll encounter the same dish twice, but starters could include the spicy warmth of morcilla on lentils or a fresh smoked salmon and monkfish terrine. Blushing-pink medallions of hare are tender and tasty without being overpoweringly gamey, but the juniper sauce lacks the expected gin-like tang. However, desserts like apple tart or chocolate and pistachio praline bring the meal to a satisfyingly gooey close. Rafael’s might not be cutting edge, but it does serve up well-done comfort food in what feels like a home from home, thanks in no small part to the efforts of its charming proprietor.

• High point: Rafael’s dish-by-dish tour of the day’s menu
• Low point: Identical plates of steamed vegetables are served alongside every main course