North Bridge Brasserie

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

A century ago, the marble columns, plush wood panelling and ornate cornicing of this grand room were privy to some fair old wrangles, as canny businessmen haggled with the Scotsman newspaper’s clerks over ad rates. Nowadays, there’s much less for visitors to quibble about. Combining elements of French, Scottish and modern British cuisine with colourful presentation, the finished product is hard to argue with. Scallops, baby turnips and a chestnut and artichoke puree is simple, earthy goodness. Venison loin with root vegetable pavé and a neat cabbage stuffed with haggis similarly impresses, while hot dark chocolate mousse and toasted marshmallow ice-cream suggests an eye for the persuasive pudding. There’s no bragging about the provenance of ingredients, but the evidence isn’t hard to spot: mackerel landed in Aberdeen, shellfish from Skye and Gressingham duck, alongside curly kale and celeriac, point towards a consideration for local, seasonal produce. Scotland’s bountiful drinks cabinet is raided to good effect too: Glenfiddich, Hendrick’s and West’s St Mungo beer switch codes from glass to plate, adding intrigue and depth of flavour. And the house wines offer good value, featuring more unusual grape varieties to tempt (or force) the casual quaffer out of their comfort zone.

• High point: The attention paid to the details, like wine served at the right temperature
• Low point: Only offers lounge menu at lunchtime