The Orangery, Balbirnie House Hotel

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2012 edition.

The Orangerie Restaurant takes its name from the long south-facing room of the former mansion house that was Balbirnie, with full length windows, trompe l’oeil mirrors and skylight with huge modern chandeliers. During the day it is full of natural light and in the evening the lighting is soft and gracious. There is simplicity in the white napery and single candle, a couple of orchids grace the unlit fire mantelpieces. The simplicity continues into the food with a short menu which includes Caesar salad, a chicken liver parfait and the hotel’s own hot smoked salmon. Lamb comes with rumbledethumps and steaks are cooked accurately and come with crisp, skin on chips. A short list of wines provides an adequate balance of styles for the food. Drinks and coffee can be taken in the cosy library bar where the years have brought a faded grandeur, and you can warm yourself in front of a gas-effect open fire. There is also a bistro bar in the former cellars frequented by locals and serving bistro classics as well as mussels from the island of Lewis.

• High point: Excellent sticky toffee pudding

Listed in The Larder – in the shops now or buy online.

The Orangerie Restaurant takes its name from the long south-facing room of the former mansion house of Balbirnie, with full length windows, trompe l’oeil mirrors and huge modern chandeliers. There is simplicity in the white napery and single candle, and the simplicity continues into the food which includes a chicken liver parfait, the hotel’s own hot smoked salmon and lamb served with rumbledethumps. There's less formal dining in a bistro bar in the former cellars, a popular spot with locals.