Fratelli Sarti

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

With its reputation for authentic north Italian cuisine and rich seafood served in elegant surroundings, dining at Fratelli Sarti’s Renfield Street branch is meant to be a special occasion. Peruse the leather bound Tuscan specials and enjoy the light of the chandeliers on the green marble and wood panels around you. Justly proud of their wine list, bottles cram every ledge and cranny ready to be plucked by a waiter and set on your table. A starter of scallops, seared to a crisp meatiness while retailing a soft, juicy centre, is served simply on a bed of leaves dressed with lemon and oil, while buffalo mozzarella with stuffed peppers, crammed with salty olives and huge capers, comes with a pungent salad, coarse leaves and strong onion. Main courses are rich and salty, featuring wild boar, homemade herby sausage and delicious seafood. Try the spaghetti allo scoglio Sarti, a generous bowl of oily pasta topped with every seafood from mussels and button scallops to whole langoustine tails.

Takeaway review
Fratelli Sarti’s trio of city centre sites are known for providing a warm and authentic Italian dining experience. Thankfully, the diverse Tuscan/Ligurian menu loses nothing in transit. Pizzas are perhaps the obvious choice here and the combination of thin, light, hand-rolled bases, with thick, juicy fresh tomato sauce and inspired toppings – the spicy diavolo will blow the minds of pepperoni lovers – are much more of a treat than a functional feed. Meanwhile, a wide array of fresh pasta dishes, equally balanced and full of flavour without swimming in oil, are just as tempting for a special night in. A sublime alternative to greasy, quick-fix comfort food.

• High point: Wonderful fresh seafood
• Low point: TV screens a bit distracting