Nargile

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2012 edition.

With its glass frontage and neutral colour scheme, Nargile eschews the mock bazaar trappings of many a UK Turkish restaurant for a sleek, contemporary look that matches the philosophy of its cuisine. Its self-styled ‘East-meets-West fusion’ still hails from the far side of the Bosphorus, still rooted in the Turkish family kitchen. Although the menu divides into starters and mains, diners are encouraged to embrace tradition by choosing the selection of mezzes to start, or even better, a banquet for two and a bottle from the Turkish wine list. The mezzes are delightful, the highlight being the simplest of the set, the house hummus. The presentation is a surprise, the effort evident, every dish exquisite. If you are sharing a banquet (go for the sultan sofrasi which takes in fish and seafood as well as meat), resist ordering extra pitta to wipe up the lemon and tahini mayo and leave room for multiple mains of the same style and standard, including keremitte balik (roasted sea bass), patlican kizartma (soft baked aubergine with feta) and the house special, a hot marinated lamb salad. To finish, the baklava selection are as sweet and sticky as they should be and about as traditionally Turkish as it comes.

• High point: Delightfully presented mezze starter selection
• Low point: Being too full after a banquet!