Katie's Diner

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Behind the blinking neon sign, Katie’s Diner is the kind of hospitable family-run restaurant that every neighbourhood should have. Owners Geoff and Kate have been perfecting their game for the last 13 years, concentrating on doing a few things well and welcoming regulars like old friends. Keeping it simple, the menu focuses on steaks and burgers, either of which could stand toe to toe with the city’s heavyweights. The quality of the beef and the kitchen’s skilled handling and careful preparation are all first class. The seven pepper lemon sauce brings delicate citrus notes to a succulent rump, with crispy onion rings supporting rib-eye and a well-marbled sirloin. Char-grilled half-pound burgers come straight up or teamed with any number of well-matched combinations including a standout stilton and peach chutney. Presentation throughout is homely and unpretentious, with simply prepared clean tasting starters and generous helpings of comfort staple puddings. Open only in the evening, the service in the small dining room is understated yet friendly.

• High point: Straightforward, tasty fare from considerate hosts
• Low point: The decor's no longer at its freshest