Mussel Inn

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

The informality of the Mussel Inn is one of its principal attractions – a relaxed, almost café-esque atmosphere that’s enjoyably appropriate for the experience of tearing mussels from their shells, getting fingers dirty and dipping bread into the various sauces available. These range from mainstays (mariniere) through to more left-field choices like blue cheese and bacon, or refried beans, jalapeños and salsa, and are available as kilo or half-kilo pots (with a cute little version for kids too). The leek and Dijon mustard variety has nice depth and a mild hit of allium from the leek – and throughout the menu one sees such controlled cooking, so that the chowder’s broth has lip-licking fishiness before a luxurious dunt of double cream, and the sauce accompanying the hot seafood platter keeps things interesting on the palate. Nothing overpowers the seafood though, which is key, and whether poached haddock, grilled seabass or scallops finished in the pan, freshness and careful cooking are evident. The bread, incidentally, gets replenished should you finish your basket – so dunk away.

• High point: Relaxed atmosphere
• Low point: It's quite bright