Librizzi

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This review is taken from the 2012 edition.

On the corner of Queen Street and North Castle Street, a mere stone’s throw from the shrill excesses of George Street’s style bars, Librizzi’s offers something that’s rare to find in the area: an old school Italian. Bow-tied waiters move between the respectfully distanced tables in the high-ceilinged main room, which is big enough to cater to large groups, the smaller adjoining area for select gatherings and an alcove for the more romantically inclined. Fish is owner Filippo Librizzi’s first love, and you could certainly do a lot worse than start with the smoked swordfish, which is as rich in the pleasant charcoal reek of bonfire as it is delicate in texture, the only downside being an over-generous hand with a garnish of red peppercorns. A main course of tuna steak in a piquant sauce is a refreshing blast of sweet and sharp, but the lamb cutlets win by a margin – deliciously chargrilled but tender within, and served with bountiful quantities of garlic and rosemary. Of the desserts, the pear poached in red wine and spices is a warming finish.

• High point: A deservedly popular Table D'Hote menu
• Low point: Profiteroles seem to have come direct from the freezer