Giuliano's on the Shore

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

For two decades, Guliano’s on the Shore has attracted tourists, a band of regulars, and budding pizza chefs keen to try their hand in the kitchen, which sits at the rear of a dining area split into two bright and airy rooms. Waterside dining is possible when there is sunshine on Leith. Cheery waiters clad in tartan waistcoats are happy to explain the locally sourced fish specials as well as a lengthy menu boasting a host of traditional favourites and bolstered by house specialities. Starters feature a flavour-packed caprese salad featuring tomatoes and creamy mozzarella topped with anchovies. If making a choice proves difficult, bruschettone – a selection of toppings on toast – might be the answer. Competing for space on the menu with familiar pizzas and pastas is a range of meat dishes including Giulano’s take on meatballs, which are enhanced by rosemary, garlic and mushrooms, and served with rice. Or try a risotto laced with smoked pancetta and Gorgonzola. Desserts include sorbets and Luca’s ice-creams, or more substantial offerings such as profiteroles and a light, Italian-style apple pie.

• High point: Long-serving staff and established menu
• Low point: May be too traditional for some