The Pompadour by Galvins

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Michelin-starred chefs Chris and Jeff Galvin shoot for an Edinburgh star at their Pompadour, secreted away in a sanctum of the Caledonian Hotel. It is a fittingly fine dining room, with castle view and a giant chandelier centrepiece among the Victoriana. Not all will relish the refinery, but the setting is splendid, and service impeccable. Whether you opt for the menu gourmand or go a la carte, you’ll be treated to amuse bouches like truffley smoked haddock arancini, then a chilled garlic velouté with duck and truffle cream. At every turn, in every dish, there are touches that please and surprise. To start, there is salmon with capered tartare sprinkled with mini croutons, decorated with a slinky coil of pickled cucumber, scallop beignet and crisp quail’s egg. Artichoke barigoule embellishes the already wonderful rabbit and ricotta ravioli. Assured mains include roast monkfish, and venison loin with turnip in curly fries form and ketchup-like red cabbage puree. A complimentary ‘pre-sert’ cleanses the palate before a generous cheese plate or artful desserts like pistachio cake, white chocolate cream, and a blood-orange duo of sorbet and jelly.

• High point: Haute cuisine in a grand setting
• Low point: Beware of drinks at five-star-hotel prices