Iggs

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Iggy Campos pioneered Spanish fine dining in Edinburgh with the eponymous Iggs back in 1989, and though its heyday may have come and gone, it remains a stalwart on Jeffrey Street. That’s not to say Iggs is stuck in the past: a 2012 visit from Channel 5’s The Restaurant Inspector refreshed the venue, replacing the distinctive red-and-yellow interior with clean, modern lines and neutral shades. The arrival of a new chef in spring 2012 also signals the desire to move forward, and it’s clear that the re-launched menu is aiming high, featuring luxury ingredients like langoustines and fashionable touches such as manchego foam. It’s a shame, then, that the food doesn’t quite live up to its billing – or its price tag. A wood pigeon starter and mains of suckling pig and sea bass on calasparra rice are all pleasing and accurately cooked, but they lack the personality and excitement of Spanish food at its best. However, portions are generous and the AA-endorsed wine list impressive, and the choice between a tapas-style tasting menu and the more conventional starter-main-dessert give diners the best of both worlds.

• High point: A fine-dining alternative to the more ubiquitous tapas bar
• Low point: Some of the food doesn't live up to its billing or price tag