Henderson's Bistro

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

The Hendersons are the grandparents of vegetarian dining in Edinburgh – the ones who started what remains an admittedly bijou niche; the ones you go to for a reliable, familiar meal; the ones who get on with everybody, from fifty-year regulars to trendy faces as fresh as a vegan diet. They may have blazed a trail half a century ago, but that doesn’t mean they’re about constant re-invention: long-term diners would have something to say about too much menu revamping. Instead, there’s always a stew, soup, lasagne, risotto, crepe, quiche and homemade cake on offer, taking their cue from the seasons with central ingredients changing every few days. These specials sit alongside filling, easy-eating mains like oat- and nut-stuffed aubergine, or a huge bean burger. The food doesn’t differ hugely from next door’s restaurant, and is neither measurably smarter nor more expensive because of the table service. Perhaps counter-intuitively, the bistro might be the better option if you’re dining with kids, or need a more accessible space, as there’s plenty of room for buggies, and the disabled loo can only be reached from the bistro.

• High point: Helpfully accommodating to dietary demands
• Low point: Feeling a little neglected by staff when the place is quiet