Howies at Waterloo

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Edinburghers have gathered in the rather impressive Regency-style ‘convening rooms’ at 29 Waterloo Place since the early 19th century. These days, the high-ceilinged, cupola-lit main room attracts diners looking for the Howies brand of Scottish dining, which remains relaxed and casual, despite the august surroundings. After buying back Howies when it faltered under a subsequent owner, everything has returned to the formula that the original guiding lights made so popular. So, it’s a menu with plenty from the Scottish larder, and the occasional splash of the Med. A firm hunk of hot-smoked Loch Duart salmon, a tidy mushroom ‘Scotch’ pie, and that old favourite – deep-fried brie – all make an appearance as starters. Mains are substantial, with a daily casserole warming the cold months. Rib-eye steak with a wild mushroom and mixed peppercorn sauce certainly has plenty of the latter. Vegetable croquettes wrap crispy breadcrumbed aubergine strips around a soft centre of melting mozzarella, tomato and pesto. A short and fairly straight dessert menu (yes, there is banoffee pie) is enlivened by a trio of good Scottish cheeses.

• High point: Historic surroundings
• Low point: No surprises on this menu