Stac Polly

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

With its arrangements of thistles and heather, seats covered in tweed and menu full of the foods typically associated with Scotland it is not hard to see why this basement restaurant is popular with well-heeled tourists. The style is country lodge, with the managers acting as affable hosts moving attentively between tables clothed in white linen. Presentation is a strong point. A confit of mackerel is enlivened with dots of lemon sauce and artfully arranged winter leaves; a shock of pink beetroot glaze is painted on a dish of moist pigeon breasts perched on a slab of peppery black pudding. Scotland meets the rest of the world in the main courses, where poached salmon is teamed with salty-herby ricotta and a chilli-flecked pancake, while a chorizo crust gives a fine piece of cod extra bursts of flavour. And of course haggis is served in various forms, as both a starter and main dish. A big chocolate hit comes from a dark sticky pudding, and the sweet creaminess of a butterscotch cheesecake is cut by a sharp lingonberry sorbet. Stac Polly's newer Brasserie, Wine and Gin Bar on street level offers lunchtime options along with an attractive nook for early evening or pre-dinner drinks)

• High point: Tasteful use of fabrics and foliage
• Low point: Elaborately folded napkins