Di Maggio's

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Di Maggio's is nearing its 30th year in Ruthven Lane, a statistic attributable both to its family friendly atmosphere – there's a play area especially for kids – and consistency. Located on a cobbled lane a stone’s throw from Byres Road, the west end branch of Di Maggio's suitably fits the area's bohemian profile. A slightly circuitous first-floor entrance leads to a dimly lit and low-ceiling dining area, giving the impression of a more compact restaurant than its 135-seater capacity suggests. Framed prints of Life magazine adorn the walls – a charming feature which ties in well the brand's commitment to Italian-American dining. The menu is a tasteful hybrid of these, with US staples such as smoked ribs and Louisiana hot wings partnering a classic selection of pizzas and pastas. Special mention must go to a New York striploin – supplied by Perthshire-based butchers Simon Howie – suitably charred and paired with impressive Tuscan roast potatoes. Desserts are anything but lightweight, with apple pie and cinnamon waffles, quintessential dishes of an American diner.

• High point: In-house magician
• Low point: Service can be stretched owing to deliveries