The Dome Grill Room

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

In the battle of opulent one-upmanship that is George Street’s social scene, The Dome stands out like a precious gem set amongst the Swarovski-studded bling of its New Town neighbours. Marble, mosaic and the impressive glass-coffered dome itself all make for a stunning interior, evocative of Grand Hotels of a bygone era. A neat wood-panelled Club Room offers an intimate, informal retreat, but it’s the Grill Room in the main space which beckons most. Tucked away at the rear, diners are afforded an element of seclusion, although the mezzanine’s elevated position and the room’s acoustics ensure they still benefit from the pleasing hubbub created by the circular bar’s patrons. The menu itself rarely strays close to adventure though, and while dishes like breaded aubergine and roast rump of lamb are solidly enjoyable, they lack the elegant touch such surroundings (and prices) demand. Occasional lapses of kitchen-side concentration (under-cooked potatoes and limp, soggy skin on an otherwise fine fillet of cod) are at odds with the attention to detail delivered by their front-of-house compatriots.

• High point: The surroundings could well leave you speechless …
• Low point: … but the food might not