The Brasserie at the Chip

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

]Sitting up in the rafters of this great Glasgow institution, in amongst the fairy lights and green, leafy plants, one can feel quite smug: although the brasserie menu may be less grand than the downstairs courtyard, you can still sample excellent quality food for half the price (and with half the stuffiness). It also attracts a different crowd: young foodies in training, couples having a quick after-work bite and crowds of West End lushes – it seems that anything goes. The food is as eclectic as the clientele and just as beguiling. A starter of parmesan custard is creamy and mild to start with a strong, tangy finish and a hint of spice, followed by a powerful punch of crunchy, salty toast. A hake fillet is accompanied by crispy seaweed, pebble-like borlotti beans and piles of anchovy sand. The dish looks as though it’s been washed up on a Scottish shore: beautiful and natural. Desserts such as a saffron poached pear or chocolate tart, are also good.

• High point: Incredibly inventive dishes
• Low point: Itsy bitsy portions