Café Gandolfi

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

With its handsome interior, chunky Tim Stead furniture and globe lights, Café Gandolfi is the granddaddy of Merchant City bohemianism. Serving a mix of clientele from shoppers to concert-goers, it’s been dishing out high-end bistro food for more than 30 years. From legendary breakfasts to elegant evening meals, the menu unashamedly raids Scotland’s larder for the best seasonal ingredients and iconic produce – think black pudding, scallops, smokies and salmon – then lets the flavours sing. Beetroot tarte tatin with Roquefort and rocket is a gorgeous combination of earthy, salt and sweet. Daily specials might include seared loin of venison with creamy peppered savoy cabbage, or west coast scallops in sage and chilli with celeriac puree and pancetta, while the regular menu offers pasta, salads and ‘Gandolfi standards’ such as pastrami on sourdough, haggis neeps and tatties or the feted Gandolfi macaroni cheese. Those who save space can choose from well-executed desserts such as feather-light malteser pot, chocolate praline pistachio cake or meringue with red berry compote.

• High point: Confident cooking with top-notch ingredients
• Low point: Navigating the menu can be confusing