Kalpna

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Ajay Bhartdwaj, owner and head chef of Kalpna, has spent over 30 years correcting the particularly British sensibility that Indian cuisine ought be a meaty affair. Indian cookery in its most traditional form is almost entirely meat-free; something which the all vegetarian menu at Kalpna is happy to reflect. More adventurous diners are actually better catered for than they might be at a more carnivorous restaurant, with lazy route-one dining choices eliminated. Taking their place is an impressive selection of in-house concoctions that combine seasonal Scottish and exotic veg to great effect. The dam aloo kashmeri – the restaurant’s signature dish – is a menu highlight; encompassing cutlets made from bound vegetables, paneer and nuts served in a delicate, creamy sauce. Baingan achari (aubergines and onions in a chilli tomato sauce) is rich and well-spiced rather than merely fiery. Tables are well spaced and the walls are decorated in plaster and mirror murals which give the restaurant a clean and unassumingly intimate feel.

• High point: Truly unique in-house recipes
• Low point: Slightly subdued atmosphere