Fishers Bistro

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Fish just tastes better when you eat it by water – a fact The Shore’s branch of Fishers has made the most of for over 20 years. This is a classic bistro: busy, buzzy, not particularly trend-led (and all the better for it). It’s hard to think of an occasion that wouldn’t be enhanced by a visit. Dates, seeing mates or things to celebrate, it balances casual and special particularly well. The menu continually evolves – stories about the chefs competing to get their ideas featured on the menu ring true when you see options such as smoked salmon with mozzarella, and crab nachos with pickled chillies. That said, the classics menu based around mussels, soup and fish-cakes still goes like, well, hot cakes. It’s all good stuff. A starter of chermoula-spiced king prawns is excellent, sour spice contrasting well with sweet prawns. Lemon sole is an exercise in simplicity, the whole fish simply ornamented by a circle of flavoured butter and a sheaf of wild garlic. And save room for a homemade dessert, particularly if you like sticky toffee pudding.

• High point: Warm, bustling atmosphere
• Low point: Not being able to get a table in the bar